Dietician and Manicurist Tips for Long Nails

“I don’t understand why my nails aren’t growing! They are super thin and break all the time. I’ve started taking biotin and am trying to polish them but they still break. My mom has these really long and strong nails (I’m 14). How do I get these?” – Lily, Etobicoke

Hello lily! Thank you for writing. Reading your question brought back vivid memories of how I was fascinated by my mother’s nails growing up. They represented sophistication to me. She never made a fuss about them, but they always looked amazing. She could cook and garden and clean and nothing would happen to them. And guess what happened? Today I have her nails and they are growing faster than I want.

But first, let’s cover how to grow your nails long, strong, and healthy from the inside out. Thank you for letting me know your age as dietary considerations change depending on the stage of life. To bring us up to speed, I spoke to Maude Morin, a Registered Nutritionist who works with JM Nutrition in Toronto (but is based in Saint John because everything is virtual now). Morin says the number one priority is making sure you’re eating enough, and especially enough protein. Teenage lives are busy, says Morin, and eating habits can be forgotten. “Three full meals a day plus healthy snacks with two liters of water,” she advises. “If you don’t eat a balanced diet, you’re missing out on vitamins and minerals, which are building blocks for hair, skin and nails.”

If you’re not fueling your body enough, she says, “it’s going to put your nails way down on the list of things your body has to do in a day.” The energy will flow first to your red blood cell count, heartbeat, brain, breathing and digestion. Your nails will suffer.”

Protein builds collagen, which helps nails grow longer and stronger; Morin recommends eggs, whole Greek milk yogurt, nuts and seeds, as well as nut butters, chicken, fish, soy products, and bone broth. You notice you’re taking biotin supplements — Morin advises making sure you’re getting biotin in your diet, too. “Biotin is vitamin B7, so grab dark leafy greens, boiled eggs, legumes, beans and lentils. Avocados have some biotin, but also healthy fats that help maintain the skin barrier and help with nails,” she says. “A multivitamin is always a good idea,” she says, “but not gummies as they don’t contain iron.”

If you’re not giving your body enough energy, she says, “it will put your nails way down on the list of things your body needs to do in a day.”

Now for the exterior nail care part of the answer. The #1 secret to nail care is wearing gloves for dishwashing and extended cleaning, says Toronto-raised, New York-based Rita Remark, a red carpet and runway nail artist and global trainer for Essie. Water weakens the nails. However, proper hydration is key. “Cuticle oil and hand cream are like eye cream and face cream,” says Remark. She uses Essie’s Apricot Cuticle Oil because “it mimics natural sebum so it’s easily noticeable and easily absorbed. Plus, it smells good, so there’s a reward for using it.” Try incorporating cuticle oil into your routine twice a day, and carry it in your purse or backpack to use whenever you remember pull out.

Stimulating blood flow also helps nails grow. A gentle cuticle push and massage will help, and (light) buffing can increase blood flow to the area. “Energy goes where blood flows,” says Remark. But be gentle; Too much filing or buffing can weaken the nail bed.

“To grow your nails long, give them a little file regularly,” she says. “It’s counterintuitive, but if you file regularly, flatten the tip so there aren’t any obstacles to detachment or cracking developing.” Just be sure to use a nail file – not a nail file, these are too coarse – that’s a grit 180 gauge minimum (the higher the grit, the finer the file). Tweezerman makes great ones, she says. Also keep a file in your bag to smooth out cracks as they start.

Treatments to strengthen nails go a long way. Remark recommends Essie Hard to Resist to be worn alone; There’s one with a purple hue that neutralizes yellow on brittle or stained nails, and one with a rosy undertone that’s good for brightening up dull nails.

If you love wearing nail color, go ahead! Remark says there’s no need for a polishing break as modern paint is now free of the harmful ingredients of the past. She recommends using Essie Start Strong as a base coat under paint. “It contains MSM compounds that don’t sound sexy but naturally strengthen the nail. They fix the nail right under the nail polish.” Change your polish once a week.

Now for the fun part: fall color trends! “It was a very green year,” she says. “It’s so versatile.” She likes a great khaki (like Essie Expressie Precious Cargo-go) and a deep hunter green (like Force of Nature). Classic reds are back, as is the classic or colorful French manicure, à la Beyoncé’s usual almond-shaped version. But it’s chocolate brown that Remark is most looking forward to this fall, citing Take the Expresso and Cold Brew Crew as top picks.

As for nail art, Remark sees minimalist graphics in just a few shades of brown, chocolate, and beige. But the biggest news in nails might be the new length: shorter! That’s good news for you, Lily (and for me, because I keep my nails strictly on the short side, with rounded edges). “It’s musicians leading the way here,” says Remark, who recently spotted Rihanna and Meghan Thee Stallion sporting shorter nails. “Very long nails have been a trend for a very long time,” she says. And we all know what happens with trends: at some point the pendulum has to swing back. Says comment: “I’m here for classical.”

Buy the advice

Grooming tools and a little TLC go a long way in keeping nails healthy

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These double-sided binders come in a protective carrying case, so you can keep them with you at all times for snags. To do this, use the finer (180) grit and always file in the same direction.

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A luxurious cuticle serum enriched with argan oil, vitamin E and apricot oil.

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Protect yourself from daily wear and tear with this strengthening, meant to be worn alone. The subtle yet edgy purple tint helps neutralize yellow and brittle nails.

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A four-sided block for filing, smoothing, polishing and shining. Buffing increases blood flow to the nail bed, but be gentle; Too much or too vigorous polishing can cause damage.

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In a year when the green nail polish trend is strong, this chic neutral khaki will be an everyday favourite.

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