Behind the Scenes of Christian Cowan’s Latest Runway Show
- Insider attended Christian Cowan’s Fall/Winter 2023 show during New York Fashion Week.
- His latest line is inspired by Hollywood stars, the queer community and Doritos.
- Many of the looks have been embellished with glitter, satin and in some cases latex tights.
Christian Cowan’s latest fashion show took place at the Starrett-Lehigh Building in New York City on Valentine’s Day.
Insider attended the event, visiting Smashbox backstage to catch up on the show’s makeup looks and having a front-row seat to see Cowan’s latest creations.
Here’s what Senior Lifestyle Reporter Amanda Krause and Lead Social Media Producer Elizabeth Morales saw and thought during the event.
Before the show, the models prepared backstage by having dinner and getting their makeup done.
Moral: I’ve never been backstage at a fashion show, so I didn’t know what to expect. I was expecting this big production where everyone was stressed out and running everywhere, but it wasn’t as hectic as I had imagined.
frill: The experience was new to me too and I felt like a fly on the wall. Hairstylists and makeup artists twirled around the models to get them ready, and others grabbed quick meals from catering to refueling before the show.
Smashbox Global Pro Lead Artist Lori Taylor Davis told Insider that the runway would feature makeup-free looks.
“For Christian Cowan, it’s all about glowing, beautiful, highlighted skin — makeup without makeup,” said Taylor Davis.
She and her team created each model’s look using shimmery primers, Smashbox Halo tinted moisturizer, and a “touch” of color on the lips and cheeks.
“It’s cut back,” she said. “For Christian, in the past it was all about colour, but this year it’s all about skin being that whole moment.”
As Taylor Davis said, Cowan brings “all the sparkle” to his fashion—so the makeup looks had to be simple but “perfect.”
frill: I’m not going to lie — I was nervous seeing makeup-free makeup on a Christian Cowan runway. After all, this is the designer who gave us a 2019 Powerpuff Girls-inspired runway with neon clothes and mod makeup.
But when the models stepped away from Taylor Davis’ makeup chair, I was blown away. I had never seen such radiant skin in my life.
Moral: These are truly accessible makeup looks that anyone can learn to wear and perfect. And I think the simplicity of these no makeup looks really lets the designs speak for themselves.
Later, attendees gathered in the massive warehouse-style venue.
frill: I would describe this space in two words: beautiful and gigantic. The catwalk was divided into two massive runways divided by white pillars and surrounded by rows of chairs.
Moral: This was one of the few late-night shows we attended, and the lack of light filtering through the windows accentuated the downtown nightlife vibe.
Some of the early stars included Bella Thorne, Rebecca Black, Brittany Broski, and Taylor Momsen.
frill: I first saw Brittany Broski backstage and then met Bella Thorne and Rebecca Black down at the show. They all looked amazing, but my favorite look was Taylor Momsen’s black blazer mini dress with feathered sleeves.
Moral: I’m a huge Gossip Girl fan, and following the show’s (recently cancelled) reboot, Momsen is having a moment.
frill: She even put her stamp on my outfit – an all pink Valentine’s Day look – which was fun.
Sam Smith and Lil Nas X were clearly crowd pleasers.
Moral: Lil Nas X is never shy about showing up in one see. His oversized Cowan headdress was perfect.
frill: I also loved Sam Smith’s sparkly coat, but it was hard to focus on either outfit – both stars were instantly smitten. I even noticed Bella Thorne making an effort to return to her seat when they arrived.
Finally, the show began with Judy Garland ballads and mood lighting.
frill: When the music started I felt like I was in a gothic opera. Lots of runway shows play upbeat pop remixes, so it was a nice change of pace to hear Garland’s legendary voice.
Moral: It matched the chic downtown vibe of the venue.
Cowan’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection was inspired by Hollywood stars and the queer community.
Cowan wrote in his show notes that this collection was inspired by “early pop culture heroines,” including Judy Garland, Jayne Mansfield, Eartha Kitt and Marlene Dietrich.
“Women who became legends. Icons of talent, beauty and suffering. Legends who became idols to the allies of marginalized queer communities across America,” Cowan wrote.
He added, “This show explores the resilience of these past legends and their queer fans, their love for one another, and ultimately their ability to channel grief into creativity.”
The first looks were elegant with unusual details.
Moral: These outfits could have been taken straight out of Jenny Humphrey’s closet if she had made it into the fashion world with Gossip Girl. Also, I love glitter and black clothes so I felt like these looks were designed for me.
frill: The same goes for me – every outfit looked like it was pulled out of my dream closet. The mix of sequins, satin and latex worked so well and the open blazers proved to me that menswear works better than womenswear.
Then Cowan showed off some of his more colorful designs.
Moral: I loved the satin dresses, but personally I’m not a blazer girl. The structured, oversized blazer is nothing new; it’s been around for seasons now. However, the satin fabric was a more unique choice. Pair that with a full satin outfit And Feathers… well, that’s something new.
frill: Since most of the show’s looks were darker and more outlandish, I thought these pops of color were fun. And I really appreciated the lavender tones as the color has long symbolized empowerment in queer spaces.
Feathers were also a big part of the show.
Moral: I have to wear this pink feather dress immediately.
frill: To be honest, by the end of this NYFW season, I was fed up with feathers — they were overall.
But then I saw Cowan’s new take on it—structured dresses with long, showy feathers that extended from unexpected places—and I started changing my mind again.
Moral: The tall feathers lengthened the designs and almost added something mysterious as the model’s faces were partially obscured. i loved that
Some of the outfits featured triangle detailing representing Cowan’s partnership with Doritos.
frill: If you’re collaborating with a snacking brand for your runway collection, I think this is the way to go: bags of Doritos for anyone to eat backstage and subtle triangle detailing on outfits that look chic but secretly reference a fan -Favorite chip.
Moral: I never thought of Doritos as trendy, but you can’t go wrong with structured designs.
Our favorite runway looks were covered in glitter, feathers and sheer details.
frill: I haven’t been able to get over Cowan’s sheer veil draped over a model’s head and lined with feathers at the bottom. It really made a personal statement.
Moral: I also loved the sheer veil. It felt like a modern – and bold – interpretation of Mary. And Cowan’s long, sparkling gown was almost bridal, paired with a feather headpiece that commands attention from the viewer.
frill: I don’t think photos can do it justice. In real life, the shimmer is dazzling and the length of the train is regal.
The Hollywood women who inspired Cowan were present in every look.
Moral: I love the nods to Vegas showgirls through the feathered headpieces featured on the show.
frill: That inspiration was so evident in the last look on the runway: a black sequined jumpsuit paired with a feathered headpiece and matching cape So heavy, the model struggled to walk with it on her shoulders.
Moral: It’s so big and again really grabs attention.
frill: I will never forget the moment this piece finally made it to the end of the runway. The model dropped it dramatically from her shoulders in an unplanned moment of defiance – a perfect homage to the women who inspired Cowan.
I appreciate all fashion that honors women and the queer community, so I think this show – and this moment in particular – was so beautiful.
Cowan’s Fall/Winter 2023 show was one for the books.
frill: This show was hands down one of my favorites that we’ve seen this season.
Moral: The extravagance was second to none. Every outfit shown on the runway was bigger and bolder than the last.
frill: And the inspirations behind each piece – whether Judy Garland or Doritos – created looks that stand out from the rest this season.
Moral: Cowan definitely knows how to put together a show and take the audience on a journey.