Types of Moisturizers and How to Select Them

Joshua Zeichner, MD: If you look at this slide, this is an extension of the same study we presented earlier on cleaning products. Here we look at a variety of moisturizers and look at several leading brands. Most products have the combination of ingredients we discussed earlier: emollients, humectants, and occlusive agents. We use another broad term, anti-inflammatory ingredients. We’re using this as part of a study and educational discussion we’re having, but antiphlogistic is not something that cosmetics will say when marketing to professionals or consumers because technically it alters the structure or function of the skin. But in the context of this conversation, we can have that discussion. We can have that mention of an anti-inflammatory ingredient. It’s usually something like niacinamide, as Mona mentioned.

Mona Gohara, MD: I like the barrier repair component which is important. It brings us back to one of the main themes of this discussion: there are some barrier disorders in acne. I would like to point out that a number of things can be dysfunctional in acne. The epicenter is not a barrier fault. That’s one of the reasons why acne happens. If we can support that, it eliminates barrier dysregulation or dysfunction as a confounder in the process.

Joshua Zeichner, MD: Because we recommend all of our patients’ #1 moisturizers, we seek advanced formulas using the latest cosmetic chemistry and formulation technology to deliver textures and consistencies patients love and want to use. That being said, as we discussed with cleansers, there are certain types of ingredients that we look for as adjunct therapy to the therapeutics that we administer to our patients with acne.

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Mona Gohara, MD: If this previous study with the bar graphs is true, if patients have a cleanser and moisturizer that supports the barrier, has an anti-inflammatory component, and has a component that goes beyond what it’s supposed to do – lower sebum – then the of even help acne to a certain extent. I don’t think it will help completely, but it will help to some degree and that can make a difference for our patients.

Joshua Zeichner, MD: The moisturizers and ingredients we recommend for acne-prone sufferers differ from the types of moisturizers and ingredients they contain for conditions like rosacea, eczema, and even psoriasis. This slide summarizes what we just talked about, the 3 different components to think about when recommending a suitable moisturizer to your patient. #1 addressing the skin barrier, both because of the inherent defects of the skin barrier in acne-prone patients and the potential irritation from medications. #2, we got how moisturizing the product is. Mona, as you perceptively pointed out, even lighter textures are just as hydrating and hydrating as heavier textures, so a lot of that comes down to personal preference. Then we have this so-called anti-inflammatory component where we might look for ingredients that provide other benefits to the skin.

Transcript edited for clarity

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