How to make the perfect lobster roll, according to a golf club chef
The lobster roll is a summertime ritual. Here’s how to make one.
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Ah, the lobster roll. I can’t say those words without imagining the iconic white and blue “LUNCH” sign along the Montauk Highway in Amagansett, Long Island. Growing up, this was the marker that told me we were only minutes from Montauk.
In New England, where I’ve always lived and worked, the lobster roll has been a favorite since its introduction at Perry’s Restaurant in Milford, Connecticut in 1929. Warm lobster smothered in butter and served on a toasted hot dog bun: how can you go wrong? This version of the lobster roll is called “Connecticut-style”. Like chowder, this American favorite has regional variations.
The Maine-style lobster roll features poached lobster as a cold salad with mayonnaise, chopped celery, and a squeeze of lemon juice. Butter lettuce leaves are placed on top of the roll before spoons of this beautiful lettuce are stacked on top. The Long Island version (also known as the Manhattan version) is almost identical to the Maine version. Just leave out the salad.
Provided it’s fresh and properly seasoned, I’m fine with either. But that’s how I would do it.
How to cook a lobster roll
The meat
If you’re making this at home, it’s best to buy fresh, live, hard-shelled lobster and make it yourself. A 1.25 pound lobster (what your local fishmonger will call a “chick lobster”) is best. You need one per person. You should simmer your lobster in a large pot of boiling water for 9 minutes, then place it in a large bowl of ice water for 6 minutes to cool completely.
Cracking Clams
If you’re new to this — and even if you’re not — you might want to wear gardening gloves so you don’t cut your fingers. Remove the tail from the body and pinch it from the sides, then pull apart. The meat pops out of the tail. The claws are a bit more demanding. You need to break the joints off the claws and use good pair of kitchen scissors to cut the skin off the meat.
Kill them kindly
I’ve been a chef for most of my career, so I’ve cooked a lot of lobster. I’ve always tried to be as human as possible. When cooking 5 to 10 lobsters, I hold the lobster with a sturdy, well-sharpened knife and split the skull right between the eyes. That kills her instantly. Then I put the lobsters in the pot to simmer. I’m sure that doesn’t sound pretty, but it makes you appreciate and respect the foods you consume even more.
The Right Role
I prefer a large New England style split top reel with flat sides. Brush the outside with butter and toast on a griddle. Get it golden brown.
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butter
Lobster rolls call for melted butter. What is that exactly? If you gently melt butter, it will separate into three layers. The top layer is milk solids (proteins), the middle is pure butterfat, and the bottom is water. Stretched butter is melted butter that does not contain water. Gently melt butter over low heat and drain milk solids and butterfat. Clarified butter would require removing milk solids and chilling overnight to ensure all excess water is removed. Not necessary here.
Mix it up
My lobster roll is a little unconventional. I like to use mayonnaise as a base and add fine herbs – or equal parts chives, chervil, tarragon and parsley. Finely chop the herbs and mix with some lemon zest, grated with a microplane (or fine zest). Add finely diced celery and you’re done. (For a little extra flavor, I add leftover butter to my salad after brushing the roll.)
Shaun’s Montauk Lobster Roll
– 1 ¼ pound lobster (prepared following directions above, meat diced into ½ inch cubes)
– 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise
– 1 teaspoon of fine herbs
– 1 tablespoon finely diced celery
– 1 pinch of lemon zest
– Salt and pepper to taste
– 1 soft hot dog roll
– 2 tbsp tapped butter for brushing
Connecticut Lobster Rolls
– 1 1/4 pounds of lobster
– 2 tablespoons warm stretched butter
– Salt and pepper to taste
– 1 soft hot dog roll
– 2 tbsp tapped butter for brushing
Maine Lobster Roll
– 1 ¼ pounds of lobster
– 2 tablespoons of mayonnaise
– 1 teaspoon of chives
– 1 tablespoon finely diced celery
– ¼ lemon wedge for juice
– Salt and cayenne pepper to taste
– 1 soft hot dog roll
– 2 tbsp tapped butter for brushing
Shaun Lewis, a classically trained chef and cocktail master, is GM at Old Westbury Golf and Country Club on Long Island, NY and is a regular contributor to GOLF.com.
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