How to climb Mount St. Helens during peak season
So you want to climb a mountain. Strike that – a volcano. For many, especially those living in the Pacific Northwest, climbing Mount St. Helens is a great way to dip your toes into mountaineering.
Before Mount St. Helens erupted in 1980, the mountain stood at 9,677 feet. Erupting activity reduced the volcano’s height by about 1,370 feet, leaving a horseshoe-shaped crater. Mount St. Helens is a non-technical climb, but that doesn’t mean it’s an easy undertaking.
Oregonian/OregonLive’s Vickie Connor did the hike in August 2022 and has some tips to help budding climbers.
Note: This climb is for experienced hikers. Do not attempt to climb Mount St. Helens without prior experience of difficult hikes that require you to climb (hands and feet). Prepare accordingly.
Climbing requires a permit all year round. The number of daily climbers is limited from April 1st to October 31st. Visit Recreation.gov to snag a coveted permit during this period. Permits are issued on the first day of the month – one month before you plan to climb. For example, I wanted to climb in August, so I went online to buy my permit on July 1st. As of 2022, the cost after fees is $18 per permit.
If you are new to mountaineering, I think the best time to go is late summer. That way, most of the snow on the mountain will be gone, and that’s one less worry. Without snow, less equipment and less technique is required for the ascent. However, if you want to climb this climb and make it in snow and ice, it’s possible at any time of the year. Be sure to check the weather forecast and pack winter gear accordingly.
If you start at Climber’s Bivouac and take the Monitor Ridge route, it’s about 5 miles to the top and about 10 miles round trip. From the starting point to the rim of the crater it was a four hour climb for me. The round trip took about nine hours for me and my climbing partner.
The elevation gain is approximately 4,500 feet over a 5-mile route.
This depends on a few factors. I was lucky because the forecast for that day was warm, clear and sunny. I took off around 4:14 am. We left Portland around 2:30 am. It was dark but the aim was to finish the climb before the warmest part of the day. Also, watching the sunrise during the climb was an unforgettable experience.
I took 3.5 liters with me. I carried a 1.5 liter reservoir and several other bottles to refill. I also brought a bottle of Gatorade to replace the electrolytes.
Bring lots of snacks. Your body needs the energy when you exert yourself to climb the volcano. I brought a few different energy bars and fruit snacks to eat lightly on the way up. I also brought a sandwich and pretzels to have lunch upstairs.
Proper preparation and clothing is important.
- Comfortable walking shoes/shoes that you have already broken in
- A rucksack. Best one for day hikes.
- Gloves with grip. I bought a pair of gardening gloves for $7. Your hands after the crawl will thank you.
- walking stick
- headlight
- suncream
- Hiking map downloaded. I used AllTrails.
- cap
- sunglasses
- watch
- spats. Keep volcanic ash and debris from getting in your shoes.
- Ice ax and crampons if there is snow on the route.
- food and water
- First aid kit
- permits
Climbing Mount St. Helens is often divided into three parts. First is the 2.1 mile hike through the forest. There is some steady elevation gain but nothing close to what comes after. Second is the scramble. You climb up the mountain through large boulder fields, often using your hands and arms to pull yourself up. Gloves are key here. This is also about two miles. Follow the white post markers to stay on the right path. The last part before the summit is the volcanic ash. Two steps forward, one step back. It feels like you’re going straight uphill and sliding down at the same time. My Achilles tendon hurt. Take frequent breaks. This part is a mental battle. Slow and steady wins the race.
There is a toilet at the trailhead and a toilet 1 mile away. Otherwise, blue plastic bags will be provided at the trailhead. Pack up, unpack, as the saying goes. When you’re done, there’s a litter bin at the beginning of the trail in the same place.
Don’t underestimate this hike. Prepare yourself for months with day hikes that gain altitude quickly. If you’re in the Portland metro area, I prepared myself to hike McNeil Point for scrambling practice, as well as Dog Mountain, Angel’s Rest, Hamilton Mountain, and other similar hikes. Make sure you stay hydrated and rested in the days immediately leading up to your climb. Eat a breakfast before you start that will give you good energy.
Climbing up the volcanic ash and boulders is definitely a struggle. You are so close and yet you feel so far away. However, if you’re like me and have a few bent knees, the descent is actually the hardest part. There is a lot of high impact on the joints.
Climbing up the boulders was great fun. I cannot repeat how helpful a pair of gardening gloves are here. In the midst of climbing, the sun rose over the mountain and the sky’s colors took on a perfect pastel blue and pink.
Pace yourself. Don’t be in a hurry and don’t overexert yourself on the way up, because the descent is another matter entirely. Soak up the experience and have fun. Doing the climb with one of my closest friends made the time go by pretty quickly and helped keep morale up. Above all, make sure you are prepared both physically and mentally. We originally got permits for June, but didn’t feel ready to make the ascent in the snow. Don’t force yourself to do this. If you don’t feel ready, maybe go another time. Finally, take the time to acknowledge that you are scaling a literal force of nature. A unique experience for many. Have fun climbing!
Hear more about my climb on the Peak Northwest Podcast:
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Vickie Connor is a videographer for The Oregonian|OregonLive. She is also a co-host on the Peak Northwest Podcast and video producer for the Peak Northwest video series. She can be reached at [email protected] or on Twitter @vickieaconnor.